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Barbarian Days. A Surfing Life
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Barbarian Days. A Surfing Life
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Издательство: Corsair
Год выпуска: 2016 Страниц: 500 Тип обложки: обл - мягкий переплет (крепление скрепкой или клеем) Оформление: Частичная лакировка Иллюстрации: Черно-белые Масса: 404 г Размеры: 198x126x32 мм Наличие: На складе
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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